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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest place earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.